“I want you to believe that you’ve been doing this your whole life. You’re an athlete. You can do this,” said Kainoa McGee, my surf coach and waterman in Oahu. Holding down my board to keep me from getting swept away by the waves, I was struggling through my first surf lesson off of Waikiki beach. The taste of salt water was overwhelming, and my attempts to stand up on the board kept ending in crashes back into the ocean. McGee, sensing my overly ambitious, critical, and overthinking nature, urged me to “get out of my head.” It was a realization that my fear of falling off the board was actually causing me to fall. In that moment, McGee seemed less like a surf instructor and more like a life coach.
Despite never having surfed before, I was drawn to the challenge. Surfers exuded confidence and strength, qualities I wanted to embody. An avid fitness enthusiast, I believed that my athletic background in running, personal training, and yoga would give me a leg up in learning to surf. I was eager to try something new, even if it meant facing the possibility of failure.
Choosing the right surf school was crucial for my first surfing experience, and I was delighted to come across the Ohana Surf Project in Waikiki. Their family-oriented approach and dedication to improving lives resonated with me, prompting me to book a private lesson with them. McGee, a seasoned surf instructor and competitor, exuded expertise and confidence, putting me at ease before we even hit the water.
On the beach, McGee guided me through warm-up exercises to activate the muscles essential for surfing. As we entered the water, I attempted to replicate the surfing stance we had practiced on land, with varying degrees of success. Despite initial struggles to stand up on the board, McGee’s encouraging words reminded me of my athletic capabilities and pushed me to overcome my mental barriers. With his guidance, I finally managed to catch a wave and experience the exhilaration of surfing for the first time.
Through the challenges of learning to surf, I discovered the importance of getting out of my own head and embracing new experiences. McGee’s coaching transcended the realm of surfing, offering valuable lessons applicable to other areas of my life. As I rode the waves off Waikiki beach, I embraced the thrill of trying something new and the satisfaction of pushing past self-imposed limitations.
