As the subway train rumbles through the tunnels, I eagerly anticipate my arrival at a textile waste facility in Brooklyn. Here, I will be volunteering with Columbia University’s Impact Fashion Club, sorting through fabric scraps and textile waste for Fabscrap, a non-profit organization dedicated to textile reuse and recycling. The industrial hum of the neighborhood greets me as I exit the station, and inside the Fabscrap warehouse, the air is thick with the smell of fabric. Bags and boxes of textile waste fill the room, showcasing the magnitude of the issue.
In a report by Women’s Wear Daily in 2021, it was revealed that New York City generates approximately 200,000 tons of textile waste annually. This staggering amount is equivalent to the height of the 102-floor Empire State Building. The enormity of the problem becomes evident as I look around the Fabscrap facility, where mountains of textile waste await sorting and recycling.
Since its establishment in 2016, Fabscrap has diverted over 1.3 million pounds of textile waste from landfills, as stated in their 2022 Impact Report. As I meticulously sort through fabric samples, I contemplate the environmental and social implications of textile waste disposal. Landfilling and incineration of textiles not only contribute to climate change but also pose health risks to communities.
The practice of waste colonialism further exacerbates these issues, as developed nations often export their textile waste to less affluent countries, causing environmental and economic harm. Finding solutions to the textile waste crisis is complex, given the diverse nature of waste streams and challenges in recycling and disposal.
Organizations like Fabscrap and initiatives in partnership with local authorities are making strides in addressing textile waste management. However, barriers such as lack of funding, technological advancements, and policy enforcement hinder progress. Collaborative efforts and innovative solutions are key to effectively managing textile waste and promoting sustainable practices in the fashion industry.
As we navigate the complexities of the textile waste crisis, one thing is clear: urgent attention and collective action are needed to scale the mountains of waste in New York City and beyond. The future of textile waste management is dependent on our ability to implement scalable solutions and drive market demand for sustainable practices. Mary Austin Harrelson, an M.S. candidate in Sustainability Management at Columbia’s School of Professional Studies, highlights the importance of addressing this pressing issue.
